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Brodi, Zuppe e Spezzatini



(Broths, Soups and Stews)


zuppe

Most people in the U.S. are familiar with the term "minestrone." But what you generally find in typical restaurants is not like what I grew up with. The word comes from minestra, meaning a somewhat thick Italian soup made with mostly vegetables, some kind of pasta or rice, and often a meat-based stock.

You can't find an "authentic" recipe for minestrone, because there really isn't one. It's made with the vegetables in season and the other stock on hand. It's widespread in Italy, just about as common on the table as pasta, but rarely served the same way twice in any two places.

Here I will share with you a couple of my traditional family recipes for soups and stews.









CAPPUCCIA E FAGIOLI

(CABBAGE SOUP)

Ingredients:

1 medium head of Savoy cabbage
2 links Italian style fresh sausage
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound pork neck bones
2 tablespoons salt
   (for meat cleansing-optional)
1 onion, chopped
1 can (8 ounces) tomato sauce
2 cups or 1 can (16 ounces)
   cooked kidney OR garbanzo
   beans
Salt and crushed red
   pepper to taste

Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Cooking Time: 1 hour and 30 minutes

Servings: 6

Cut the cabbage in quarters lengthwise and remove the stem endss so the leaves will separate. Wash and place in a colander to drain. Make cuts to the sausage links about 1 inch apart without cutting all the way through. Sprinkle the pork bones throughout with 2 tablespoons of salt, let them sit for 2 minutes, then rinse them with cold water. In a medium saucepan, cook the neck bones and the sausage link in the olive oil on medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the onion and sauté for 3 minutes or until onion is translucent. Add the tomato sauce, salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Add the cabbage with 2 cups of water, bring to a fast boil on high heat, then simmer covered on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the beans and simmer for an additional 40 minutes or until the cabbage has reached the desired tenderness. Serve hot with fresh bread and butter.

In the old days we made soups such as this when our bread started to get hard. We'd cut the bread in small slices and put a couple layers at the bottom of the serving bowl, then we'd pour the boiling soup over the top. We'd eat it with smashed raw red onions.

The old kitchen had a fireplace with a fire going in the winter from morning till night. We'd start the smaller "pignata" (terracotta pot with wide belly, narrow opening, and 2 handles close together) with the beans cooking in the morning, for what seemed like all day, in short winter days. Shortly after midday we'd start the larger pignata for the soup.





GENERIC EVERY DAY




BRODO DI POLLO

(CHICKEN BROTH)

Ingredients:

½ chicken
3 tablespoons salt
   (optional for cleansing)
1 onion
1 carrot
2 tablespoons salt
1 celery stalk, leaves included
½ bunch parsley
Salt and black pepperto taste

Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Cooking Time: 1 hour

Makes 14 cups of stock

Cut the chicken in 4 pieces, then cut off visible fat and any excess skin and discard. Place the pieces in a large stockpot, sprinkle 3 tablespoons of salt over it, mix well and let sit for 5 minutes. Peel, wash and cut the onion and carrot in quarters, wash and cut the celery in 4 or 5 pieces, using the leaves also for added flavor, then wash the parsley. Rinse the chicken, add 4 quarts of water and the rest of the ingredients to the stockpot and bring to a fast boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes or until the chicken is well cooked. Let it cool, then remove the fat over the top with a slotted spoon. The chicken pieces can be served with cooked leafy vegetables such as steamed spinach or chard, and bread.

The broth can be used for stock or for the Stracciatella recipe and the Pastina (small pasta comes in several different shapes, including pepper seeds, little stars, rice, and so many more shapes.

A favorite in our family is to pick some of the chicken meat off the bones, chop it and put it back in the pastina soup along with the vegetables cut in small pieces.

It was believed when I was growing up, that chicken broth was ideal for women in their early post-partum days as it would aid the milk production for breast feeding. When they saw the women bringing the chicken soups to the table, the men in our family would tease them with smart remarks like "Ladies, the broth is wasted on us, we don't have to produce milk - bring us the pasta!" It never failed to bring some smiles and laughter. That's how the joking and the teasing started and as the afternoon were on the atmosphere became more and more "allegra" (jovial) which made for a pleasant day for everyone.









PASTINA AL BRODO

(CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP)

Ingredients:

7 cups chicken broth
¼ pound small pasta (pastina)
Salt and pepper to taste
6 tablespoons grated
   parmesan cheese (optional)

*Preparation Time: 5 minutes

*Cooking Time: 20 minutes

Servings: 6

Strain the broth through a sieve into a medium saucepan. Bring it to a fast boil, add the small pasta (pastina) and stir to prevent from sticking, cover the saucepan and bring it to boil again, watching carefully so the liquid does not boil over. Add salt and pepper as desired and cook uncovered at medium heat, according to the directions on the package or until the desired consistency, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle grated cheese over the top of each serving and serve hot.

For variation add additional nutrients: 2 pieces of the boiled chicken, separated from the bones and chopped, along with chopped vegetables cooked in the broth.

* Cooking time and preparation time are not included for homemade chicken broth. Canned chicken broth can be substituted, but the taste may vary.

When my sons were little, pastina always made them feel pampered, especially if they were sick -- but they loved it any time. Eventually, as they got older, they learned to cook it by themselves (there was usually some broth in the refrigerator). I have nostalgic memories of two boys coming home from school on rainy winter days and making pastina. They especially liked to cook it when their friends came over. They felt so big and confident when their friends commented about their cooking. Only allowed when I was at home, of course!







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